Lovingly posted by Rania Moda, mom to two boys, Dian and Alvin.
Sudah lama aku memendam keinginanku untuk mengunjungi Kampung Baduy. Suku Baduy adalah suatu komunitas penduduk yang tinggal di pedalaman Banten yang masih mempertahankan adat istiadatnya sejak ratusan tahun yang lalu. Mereka hidup hanya bergantung kepada Alam sepenuhnya, tidak menggunakan alat alat modern untuk mempermudah kehidupan. Pucuk dicinta ulam tiba....di Milis tiba tiba ada anggota yang nulis capernya (Catatan Perjalanan) ke Baduy. Langsung deh...japri ke penulis....n nanya....kapan nih ke Baduy lagi...aku gabung yaa......(sok akrab....padahal belum kenal...hehehehehe). Singkat cerita....akhirnya tiba juga saatnya kita pergi ke Baduy, ada sekitar 20 anggota yang mempunyai minat yang sama berjibaku trekking ke Baduy...uniknya...diantara kami belum pernah ada yang ketemu sebelumnya...bener-bener baru pertama kali kopdar.....(gaya anak muda sekarang...kenal cuma di milis....hebatnya internet yaa..!).
I've been wanting to visit a Baduy (Bedouin) village. Baduy tribe is a community of people living in rural Banten still maintain the customs and traditions since hundreds of years ago. They live depends only on the fully Nature, do not use modern equipments to simplify life. My dream looked like would come true when I saw someone at the Mailing List members who wrote a journey to the Baduy. I right away wrote to author .... asking .... when is the next trip to Baduy again..? ... I'd like to join......( tried to talk as a close friend, infact I don't know anything about this person ... hehehehehe). Long story short .... the time was finally arrived. We went to the Baduy Village, there were about 20 members who have similar interests roll up the sleeves did trek to Baduy... uniquely ... among us have never met anyone previously ... it's really cyber friends-meeting-in person .....( it's the young style now in the 21st century known only in the mailing list, I think internet is great).
Pagi itu kita ngumpul di Stasiun Tanah abang Jakarta Pusat menunggu kereta Rangkas Jaya yang akan membawa kami ke Rangkas Bitung, Banten. Kami saling berkenalan dan ngobrol seadanya...mengingat baru pertama kali kita ketemu. Tapi anehnya kok kita kayak udah akraaaab gitu...atau sok akrab ya?!...hehehehehe. Oh iyaaa....ini perjalanan Backpacker ya.....jadi kita cuma bawa ransel aja...lagian mau trekking juga ..mosok kostumnya modis...gak enak sama porternya kan...hehehe.
Stasiun Rangkas Bitung, lebih kurang 2 jam dari Jakarta Rangkas Bitung Train Station, about 2 hours to Jakarta |
Setelah berkereta dua jam (kebanyakan dari kita tidur ....berangkatnya pagi booo...jadi masih pada ngantuk), sampailah kita di Rangkas Bitung. Dari sini perjalanan di lanjutkan ke desa Cibolegar dengan mobil Elf selama dua jam pula. Ditengah perjalanan pake acara ban kempes segala....waaaah udah pada deg2an aja niih para peserta. Dalam hati aku berdoa semoga perjalanan ini lancar...firasatnya udah gak enak aja.
Cibolegar Village |
Akhirnya kita sampai di Cibolegar.....mobil berhenti seperti di terminal kecil....ada beberapa warung makan n toko-toko kecil. Aaaaaahhhh ada AlfaMart juga!!....ternyata hari itu ada pembukaan gerai Alfamart baru di Cibolegar. buseeet deh!....mpe buka di daerah terpencil gini....gimana nasib warung-warung di sekitar situ yaa...jadi kurang bisa bersaing kan??.
Finally we arrived at Cibolegar...the car stopped in a small bus shelter..there are a few small food stalls. And aaaaww..! there's 'Alfamart' (one of the famous supermarket chain in Indonesia)..turned out that day was the grand opening of new Alfamart in Cibolegar. What in the world...?..they opened in this remote areas, what will happend with the bussiness of those small shops arround..?
Kami masuk di sebuah warung makan yang disitu udah nungguin guide kami yang bernama Pak Agus orang Baduy Luar. Oh iya.....aku ceritain sedikit ya....Baduy ada 2 kategori yaitu Baduy Luar dan Baduy dalam. Baduy luar sudah seperti kampung biasa yaa...dimana penduduknya sudah memakai alat2 modern tapi mereka masih keturunan suku baduy ciri-cirinya mereka memakai pakaian warna biru tua. kalo Baduy dalam.....bener-bener yang masih memegang teguh adat istiadat kuno mereka termasuk berpakaian dengan warna hitam dan putih aja.
We went on a food stall and our guide named Mr. Agus had already been waiting for us, he is an Outer Baduy people. Oh yes !.... I tell you a little bit of Baduy there are 2 categories: Outer Baduy and Inner Baduy. The Outer was like a Baduy ordinary village ... where residents have been using modern equipments but they still descendants of the tribe Baduy typically they wear dark blue clothes while Inner Baduy ..... if that still holds to their ancient customs, including dress with simple black and white color only.
Jalan Setapak menuju Baduy Dalam The Path toward Inner Baduy |
After finished eating and praying for the Muslims .... we got ready to start trek and had previous brief training ...about the route that will we travel to go to 'Cibeo Village' of Inner Baduy. Well, it's freak us out to learn about how many hills that we had to climb. Even some of the participants didn't have guts to continue this trip and intended going back but felt ashamed to express their feelings honestly .... hehehehehehe ... it was revealed after we go home.
pose dulu sebelum trekking didampingi porter-porter dari Baduy Dalam before trekking with porters from Inner Baduy, look at their unique costumes |
little Baduys, they strong running and carrying our backpacks |
This was really not an easy adventure, many times we had to stop and take a deep breath to gain energy and prayed hoping we blessed with the strength to reach the place. Long story short we arrived at Cibeo Village. We said Subhanallah...thanks God. It's almost 6 in the evening (departured at 8 in the morning from Jakarta). They gave us a nice surprise warm ginger beverage and fresh banana...aaaw..it's simple yet wonderful probably because we're satisfied, we're finally get in to this place.
ayoo, semangat, semangat..! get into the spirit of adventure..! |
We spent the night at local tribe house ... the female participants were at Mr. Ardy's house and the men at Mr. Mursyd's house. A typical house of Baduy is a Stage House without permanent divider in it .... there is only one room as a bedroom just for us to sleep. So we slept in the bale-bale (simple bed usually from bamboo) in the house, there were only oil lamps that illuminate the home. oh yaaa ...we bathe in the river before dinner ...boooy, what an experience!!... It's small river... but the water was crystal clear.
Malamnya ...setelah kita makan malam....(kita gak menikmati makanan asli mereka, karena Pak Agus,,guide kita yang masakin nasi goreng untuk santap malam), ada pertemuan dengan wakil Pu'un (sebutan untuk kepala suku di Baduy) karena Pu'un lagi sibuk....jadi gak bisa menemui kita. Kita sempet berkelakar....lagi dipanggil RI1 kaleeee...hehehehehehe.
The night after dinner (we didn't have their traditional meals, because Mr. Agus already prepared fried rice for dinner), there was a meeting with the vice of Pu'un (the head chief of Baduy) because he's on duty.
Leuit..Lumbung padi Leuit, building to store the rice |
dunia. dsini seolah waktu berhenti berdetak......gak kebayang kan...ditengah kita yang sudah kenyang teknologi...masih ada sekelompok orang-orang yang hidup sama dengan hidup nenek moyang mereka ratusan tahun yang lalu.
In the meeting we talk a lot and frequently asked questions about customs, beliefs and all things that we want to know about Baduy. After that we chat infront of the house the atmosphere was romantic the sky is light of the full moon in the remote area ..and away from the hustle and bustle world, as if time stopped in the middle, you may never imagine it ... we are already in the high technology ... still there is a group of people that live practically same with their ancestors lived hundreds of years ago.
taking a break before enter Inner Baduy |
After breakfast we walk around the village. There are certain limits that we are not allowed to pass through certain areas ... especially around the house a radius of 20 meters arround Pu'Un's house ... we are not allowed to pass .. fffuuuuiiih ... it's restricted area. Hehehehehe we have to respect their privacy, right..?. Oh yaa while in Inner Baduy Village we're not allowed to take some photos or videos .... so all the photographs in this story taken from Outer Baduy area. Let our memories in Baduy off the record in our hearts,..isn't that cool?.
Dang Dang Ageng a Big Lake on the way to Inner Baduy |
By the way.... there are no mosquitoes here...I remember my lovely son, Alvin gave me 'Autan' (anti mosquito lotion) ... "This is for you mama, I bet there are lots of mosquitoes in the jungle!' ...I'm so proud of him, Thank you Vin!.
Setelah puas jalan-jalan...kita bersiap pulang. Tapi rute yang kita lalui beda dengan ketika berangkat ...hmmm...jadi semangat lagi deh. Oh iya selama trekking kita dibantu oleh porter-porter dari Baduy Dalam...Selain itu kita juga bisa beli hasil kerajinan mereka seperti gelang, tas anyaman akar etc. Aku sempet beli Badik milik Pak Ardy...seharga 200 ribu...lumayaaaan buat kenang-kenangan.Once we had enough time to stroll arround ... we're ready to go home. But we would go through different routes ... hmmm ... so we're in the spirit again. Oh yes, during our trekking we were assisted by porters from Inner Baduy ... In addition we also can buy their handicrafts such as bracelets, root woven bags etc root. I bought 'Badik' (a little traditional knife) of Mr. Ardy ... worth 200 thousand Rupiah ... it's great as a souvenir.
nice background of the hills that we went through bukit bukit di background itu sudah kami lalui semua |
The trip back was relatively the same eventhough on the different routes... through the hills that we forget to count how many hills, also the rivers, but we saw the impressive long Bamboo Bridge and very exotic .... it's built without using nails only ropes of fibers to be string up ..I think it's great ... we made bunch of pictures in there.
Akhirnya kita sampai juga di Cibolegar kira-kira jam 1 an lah. Setelah Makan dan Sholat kita lanjutkan perjalanan dengan mobil Elf dan dilanjutkan dengan Bis Umum ke Jakarta ( tidak dengan kereta seperti berangkatnya).
Selesailah sudah petualangan seru kami di Baduy dalam...yang seru dan mengesankan....sungguh suatu pengalaman batin yang tak terlupakan dan tak ternilai.
Finally we arrived back in Cibolegar at about 1 PM. After Meals and Pray, and we're on the journey back by car and continued by public bus to Jakarta (not with train).
Our adventure in Inner Baduy was over it was an exciting and memorable trip... .... truly a spiritual experience unforgettable and priceless.
..a little bit about Baduy from Wilkipedia
The Baduy (or Badui), who call themselves Kanekes, are a traditional community living in the western part of the Indonesian province of Banten, near Rangkasbitung. (Java Island).Their population of between 5,000 and 8,000 is centered in the Kendeng mountains at an elevation of 300–500 meters (975'-1,625') above sea level. Their homeland in Banten, Java is contained in just 50 km² (20 sq. miles) of hilly forest area 120 km (75 miles) from Jakarta, Indonesia's capital.
Ethnically the Baduys belong to the Sundanese ethnic group. Their racial, physical and linguistic traits bear much resemblance to the rest of the Sundanese people; however, the difference is in their way of life. Baduy people resist foreign influences and vigorously preserve their ancient way of life, while modern Sundanese are more open to foreign influences and a majority are Muslims.
The Baduy are divided into two sub-groups; the Baduy Dalam (Inner Baduy), and the Baduy Luar (Outer Baduy). No foreigners were allowed to meet the Inner Baduy, though the Outer Baduy do foster some limited contacts with the outside world. The origin of the word Baduy may come from the term "Bedouin", although other sources claim the source is a name of a local river[1].
The religion of the Baduy is known as Agama Sunda Wiwitan, a combination of traditional beliefs and Hinduism. However, due to lack of interaction with the outside world, their religion is more related to Kejawen Animism, though they still retain many elements of Hindu-Buddhist religion influences, like the terms they use to define things and objects, and the rituals in their religious activities.
According to kokolot (elder) of Cikeusik village, Kanekes people is not adherent of Hinduism or Buddhism, they follow animism, the belief that venerated and worshiped the spirit of ancestors. However in its development this faith is influenced and incorporated Hindu, and to some extent, Islamic elements
A certain amount of Islamic influence has also penetrated into the religion of a few of the Baduy Luar in recent years (especially in Cicakal Girang village), with some original ideas thrown in for good measure. The ultimate authority is vested in Gusti Nu Maha Suci, who according to the Baduy sent Adam into the world to lead the life of a Baduy.
trus..baduy dalamnya gmana..ga kebayang sm skali niy.. Adat istiadat,kepercayaan kasih gambaran donk..
ReplyDeleteThanks yaa....udah baca tulisan ini..aku coba jelasin dikit ya
ReplyDeleteKehidupan sehari-hari masyarakat Baduy Dalam sih sama seperti masayarakat pedesaan umumnya yang kebanyakan berprofesi sebagai Petani. Meskipun ada juga yang menjadi Pedagang. Mereka menjual hasil pertanian ke pedagang dari Baduy luar dengan menggunakan mata uang Rupiah juga.
Agama yang dianut Baduy dalam adalah Agama Sunda Wiwitan. Mereka meyakini bahwa Nabinya adalah Nabi Adam. Sepertinya Agama ini pengaruh Hindu dan Islam. Mereka juga mengenal merawat jenazah<, jadi kalo ada yag meninggal juga dimandikan dan dikafani selayaknya masyarakat Islam. Mereka juga tidak mengenal sesajen...Mereka percaya Tuhan sebagai penguasa alam semesta.
Kalo masalah pernikahan....Baduy Dalam sebaiknya menikah dengan sesama Baduy Dalam, tapi kalo ada yang hendak berniat menikah dengan masyarakat luar diperbolehkan dengan syarat mereka harus masuk dan mengikuti adat istiadat Baduy Dalam. Sekali mereka menyatakan keluar dari kekerabatan Baduy Dalam , tidak bisa masuk lagi ke Baduy Dalam meskipun masih boleh berkunjung.
Masyarakat Baduy Dalam tidak boleh sama sekali menggunakan alat-alat modern di kawasan baduy Dalam maupun diluar. Jadi pergi kemanapun dengan berjalan kaki saja. Kadang mereka pergi jalan-jalan ke Jakarta dengan berjalan kaki, memakan waktu 3 hari. Biasanya ini dilakukan oleh pemuda-pemuda Baduy. Selayaknya anak muda pada umumnya, kadang mereka mencoba pengalaman baru. Tapi tetap gak berani aturan adat istiadat yang sudah ditetapkan, Kebanyakan mereka memang patuh sekali dengan adat meskipun sedang berada diluar kawasan baduy, mereka yakin kalau melanggar akan ada keburukan yang datang menimpa mereka.
hmmmmm....apalagi yaa???? sementara ini dulu saja ya...kalau ada yag masih kurang jelas boleh nanya lagi kok....hehehehe
info nya sangat menambah wawasan
ReplyDeleteterus update gan